The Lapel: Different style

Every man should own a suit, and should know anything and everything about suits/blazers/coats depending on the depth of his interest in fashion and style. well, today this article is about a certain part of a suit/blazer/coat called the lapel. The lapel is the part of the suit(blazer/coat)  that runs from the collar bone to the top button on the inside seam where the suits meets itself- you can easily just call it the collar of the outerwear. Most times people who aren’t in depth with fashion will not notice the difference in lapels but that is why lapel broaches and pins exist!  

The three types of lapel styles are the Notch, the Peak, and Shawl style’s lapel’s. My personal favourite is the Peak styled lapel but below is a description of each lapel style accompanied with illustrative photos. After going through it i’m sure you’d be able to pick a favourite too!

The Notch

The notch lapel to me is the most common type, its the “typical” lapel type, you are likely to find on suit-like outerwear or a suit itself.

the red lines illustrate the notch style lapel, you’d notice that the edges of the top and bottom lapel  are parallel to each other.  This lapel form is less dressy, it would be best for extremely formal occasions, for example if you were to wear a suit/coat/blazer to your job interview, it would be very appropriate to where one with  a notch style lapel, its simple and neat.

Notch style lapel on a checkered blazer

it looks something like this when worn,

The Peak

The peak lapel is more pronounced, its usually has this unconstructed, rugged but stylish and casual yet formal look.    The yellow lines on the picture below illustrate the shape and style 0f the peak lapel .

In this case you’d see that the edge of the bottom lapel extends all the way up to form a sharp end hence the name “peak lapel”. This lapel style is unique, I particularly love this kind, its nice for people who aren’t afraid to go outside the norm. It gives the formal look a little casual aura because the style is a little playful, like i said rugged yet stylish and casual yet formal.

the peak lapel on a suit

It looks something like this when worn

 The Shawl

This lapel is mostly seen on tuxedos but now a days contemporary fashion has inculcated it into their collections, adding the shawl lapel to dressy blazers and coats. In terms of tailoring, this is the simplest kind of lapel, in that it doesn’t have any cuts and looks like the front of a smoking jacket or bath robe, unlike the notch and peak lapels which makes it easier for tailors to construct the suits.

This lapel style is the i’m-simple-but-i’m-still-a-boss  kinda style, the oo7 stars got away with this look so perfectly. Its the classiest of them all, its perfect for special black tie occasions, ball room events, gambling and the likes.

Daniel craig in a tuxedo

 

the shawl lapel on an orange patterned blazer

It looks something like this

Now that we have gone through the types, I know you all will have one which you particularly prefer, you can also use this as a shopping guide whenever you shop for suits/coats/blazers.

HOW TO WEAR WHITE TROUSERS

Written by Abi Tottenham-Smith in Fashion essentials

White is the colour to be seen in this summer. Not only does it have great practical plus points, it also looks great on a hot, sunny day. 

White will keep you fresh and sweat-free as the colour reflects the heat instead of retaining it, leaving you feeling and looking cool. 

Forget looking like a throwback to the eighties; white trousers are perfect for those long summer days and evenings and versatile enough to wear with (almost) anything. 

Although this trend is certainly nothing new, men are starting to realise the attraction of a crisp white pair of trousers, now more than ever. The best ways to wear them is contrasted with dark colours or patterns.

 MWS Craig mixing white with a pattern blazer

They look great with any sort of pattern so be brave and experiment with crazy prints as the white anchors the look. Dark colours such as grey and navy are more classic and will ensure a safe but sophisticated look. 

Top tip- never mix white with white, it’s far too biblical and then you will end up looking like you’re from the eighties. White trousers also look great paired with a classic denim shirt for a more laid-back look, or a blazer for a smarter evening look. You can really wear any type, colour or pattern of blazer here, again, as long as you’re not head to toe white.

 White x White = Biblical

Another thing to consider, as many people (normally women) tend to overlook, is underwear! As you are wearing white trousers, you are more susceptible to the dreaded VPL (visible panty line, in case you didn’t know). Always ensure you are wearing white or neutral underwearas seeing some nice black or patterned underwear through your trousers will completely throw off your look. 

And finally, keep them clean! White has a few practicality issues in the maintenance department and there is nothing worse than dirty marks on white clothing. Think about where you are wearing them before you put them on in the morning.

 White is perfect for holiday wear

It goes without saying; don’t wear them to an occasion such as afestival where you will be sure to return with a bum covered in mud and grass stains. 

So there you have it, a good white pair of trousers are a vital summer buy and are so versatile you will be wearing them all summer long. What do you think of white trousers? Do you own a pair?

TALLER OR SHORTER THAN THE AVERAGE

Written by Menswear Style
 

Us guys come in all shapes and sizes and the most stylish men are the ones who have learned to dress to manipulate and compliment their own body shapes. 

You've heard the usual rules like “don’t wear horizontal lines if you want to appear slimmer” and “don’t wear loose and baggy clothing if you’re short”, but now we’re going to look into this a bit further and learn from 2 of the most stylish guys we know – and yep you’ve guessed it, one is taller and one is shorter than the average man.

 La Touché at LCM

Taller than the average 

My name is La Touché, I'm tall and I LOVE hats! By day I teach Environmental Health and by night I grow closer and closer to my passion which is to become a brand consultant. 

My fellow friends Martell Campbell and Nigel Ruwende attracted me to menswear with their impeccable individual style. I've always been inspired by individuality and confident dressers. 

I'm always Always wearing a hat (you'll never catch me without a hat) mood changing and weather dependent. I tend to dress depending on how I feel and on how good or bad the weather is. 

I like to think that my style is experimental, I like to take risks and try and switch up my style a bit, experiment as much as possible. I feel I can take more risk due to my height. 

Tips and advice for guys with a similar body shape 

If you have trousers that no longer fit you BUT you love them, wear them a little higher and show LOADS OF SOCK! If you have a small waist wear braces. Invest in a good pair of black shoes and find a good long sleeve shirt that sits well on the arms (same rule for blazers and jackets). Experiment when layering - being slim allows a lot more flexibility. Build up a good relationship with your tailor (don't just see him for your formal outfits).

 Nigel at LCM (image credits: Zane Colquhoun for MWS)   

Shorter than the average 

My name is Nigel Ruwende, I'm a stylist and Deputy Editor ofindividualism.co.uk, from a young age I was amerced by popular art, style, and fashion by my older sisters. As I grew older, my love and comprehension of menswear evolved. 

I would say my personal style matures with me. If I could wear a suiteveryday I would, but you can't rush these things. I have elements of tailored street wear in my day to day wardrobe, but I'm gradually building up a stronger smart wardrobe as my sartorial knowledge grows. 

Tips and advice for guys with a similar body shape 

In terms of suiting I'd say if you have a similar body shape to me, don't go ultra fitted. I'm quite slight so I've learnt that if I have things too fitted I just look ill! 

Follow the shape of your silhouette, but leave it little room. It makes the overall fit look effortless, and when you're comfortable you're confident.

DRESSING YOUR AGE - 30S

I turned 30 last year and felt weird, for lack of a better word. There was this feeling of sadness that I would perhaps lose my game the minute a 20 something woman asked for my age at the bar, like that ever happens!!! But at the same time, there was an overwhelming sense of accomplishment when I realized that I was better turned out at 30 than I have ever been. 

Dressing your age in your 30s can be tricky and also has a lot to do with dressing for your role at work. That has a lot to do with striking a balance between still looking young and trying desperately to hang on to your youth! 

In my 20s it was acceptable to wear basketball shoes, loose denims and tees because you were in college or getting into your first job. When I hit 30, it was critical I dressed neat and clean. I am now in middle management and interact regularly with clients, and meet them for a drink after work hours too. I have a team that reports in to me and I should ideally project what their role model would look like. 

Which is why, I always keep a blazer (pocket square in tow) and pair of shoes handy, in the backseat of my car. Also I tend to stick to a reversible belt (black/brown) for ease of flipping it over depending on the shoe colour. With formals, it’s usually a dress watch and cuff links for shirts to nail the look. The choice of shoes are brogues, oxfords and penny loafers. 

What about Friday nights and the weekend you say? When you are out grabbing a beer at the bar or dancing away at one of those drum n bass, dubstep gigs? None of those baggy, low hanging denims. It’s morePaul Smith jeans - straight or slightly tapered denims or chinos coupled with classic sneakers or loafers, shorts (no cargos please) with a basic v neck or broad round neck tee. Strictly no loud prints or worse still Ed Hardy t shirts that are oh so gawdy! 

And then there is your eye wear - keep it simple. No random designs or mercurial lenses. Remember, you are not a snowboarder or dirt biker, unless you are one of course. Go for the 3 classic looks that RayBan retails and at least one of them is made for your face. Those are the Aviators, Wayfarers or Club Masters. All 3 different and unique designs. All 3 very classy and mature. 

Then there are the dress down days. No sir, Hawaii shirts do not qualify. Keep it classy with polo tees, chinos, dark straight cut denims and loafers/brogues. Perhaps a minimal Chronograph for a watch and if wearing sneakers, a G Shock will match better. If you feel the need to wear sneakers, stick to brands such as Nike, Converse, New Balance or Onitsuka Tigers. You cannot go wrong with vintage designs! 

A critical thing is to focus on being stylish, rather than trendy. Work on your personal style and make that your trademark look. It could be the slightest detail, like for me it is wearing my watch on the right hand and a statement ring on the middle finger of my left. And break out those running shoes. Remember it is critical to stay fit for you to look good at any age, more so when you hit your 30s and progress from there. Invest in a good pair of training shoes and clothes. Stay fit and look better than you ever did as you get older!