The Lapel: Different style

Every man should own a suit, and should know anything and everything about suits/blazers/coats depending on the depth of his interest in fashion and style. well, today this article is about a certain part of a suit/blazer/coat called the lapel. The lapel is the part of the suit(blazer/coat)  that runs from the collar bone to the top button on the inside seam where the suits meets itself- you can easily just call it the collar of the outerwear. Most times people who aren’t in depth with fashion will not notice the difference in lapels but that is why lapel broaches and pins exist!  

The three types of lapel styles are the Notch, the Peak, and Shawl style’s lapel’s. My personal favourite is the Peak styled lapel but below is a description of each lapel style accompanied with illustrative photos. After going through it i’m sure you’d be able to pick a favourite too!

The Notch

The notch lapel to me is the most common type, its the “typical” lapel type, you are likely to find on suit-like outerwear or a suit itself.

the red lines illustrate the notch style lapel, you’d notice that the edges of the top and bottom lapel  are parallel to each other.  This lapel form is less dressy, it would be best for extremely formal occasions, for example if you were to wear a suit/coat/blazer to your job interview, it would be very appropriate to where one with  a notch style lapel, its simple and neat.

Notch style lapel on a checkered blazer

it looks something like this when worn,

The Peak

The peak lapel is more pronounced, its usually has this unconstructed, rugged but stylish and casual yet formal look.    The yellow lines on the picture below illustrate the shape and style 0f the peak lapel .

In this case you’d see that the edge of the bottom lapel extends all the way up to form a sharp end hence the name “peak lapel”. This lapel style is unique, I particularly love this kind, its nice for people who aren’t afraid to go outside the norm. It gives the formal look a little casual aura because the style is a little playful, like i said rugged yet stylish and casual yet formal.

the peak lapel on a suit

It looks something like this when worn

 The Shawl

This lapel is mostly seen on tuxedos but now a days contemporary fashion has inculcated it into their collections, adding the shawl lapel to dressy blazers and coats. In terms of tailoring, this is the simplest kind of lapel, in that it doesn’t have any cuts and looks like the front of a smoking jacket or bath robe, unlike the notch and peak lapels which makes it easier for tailors to construct the suits.

This lapel style is the i’m-simple-but-i’m-still-a-boss  kinda style, the oo7 stars got away with this look so perfectly. Its the classiest of them all, its perfect for special black tie occasions, ball room events, gambling and the likes.

Daniel craig in a tuxedo

 

the shawl lapel on an orange patterned blazer

It looks something like this

Now that we have gone through the types, I know you all will have one which you particularly prefer, you can also use this as a shopping guide whenever you shop for suits/coats/blazers.

HOW TO WEAR WHITE TROUSERS

Written by Abi Tottenham-Smith in Fashion essentials

White is the colour to be seen in this summer. Not only does it have great practical plus points, it also looks great on a hot, sunny day. 

White will keep you fresh and sweat-free as the colour reflects the heat instead of retaining it, leaving you feeling and looking cool. 

Forget looking like a throwback to the eighties; white trousers are perfect for those long summer days and evenings and versatile enough to wear with (almost) anything. 

Although this trend is certainly nothing new, men are starting to realise the attraction of a crisp white pair of trousers, now more than ever. The best ways to wear them is contrasted with dark colours or patterns.

 MWS Craig mixing white with a pattern blazer

They look great with any sort of pattern so be brave and experiment with crazy prints as the white anchors the look. Dark colours such as grey and navy are more classic and will ensure a safe but sophisticated look. 

Top tip- never mix white with white, it’s far too biblical and then you will end up looking like you’re from the eighties. White trousers also look great paired with a classic denim shirt for a more laid-back look, or a blazer for a smarter evening look. You can really wear any type, colour or pattern of blazer here, again, as long as you’re not head to toe white.

 White x White = Biblical

Another thing to consider, as many people (normally women) tend to overlook, is underwear! As you are wearing white trousers, you are more susceptible to the dreaded VPL (visible panty line, in case you didn’t know). Always ensure you are wearing white or neutral underwearas seeing some nice black or patterned underwear through your trousers will completely throw off your look. 

And finally, keep them clean! White has a few practicality issues in the maintenance department and there is nothing worse than dirty marks on white clothing. Think about where you are wearing them before you put them on in the morning.

 White is perfect for holiday wear

It goes without saying; don’t wear them to an occasion such as afestival where you will be sure to return with a bum covered in mud and grass stains. 

So there you have it, a good white pair of trousers are a vital summer buy and are so versatile you will be wearing them all summer long. What do you think of white trousers? Do you own a pair?

TALLER OR SHORTER THAN THE AVERAGE

Written by Menswear Style
 

Us guys come in all shapes and sizes and the most stylish men are the ones who have learned to dress to manipulate and compliment their own body shapes. 

You've heard the usual rules like “don’t wear horizontal lines if you want to appear slimmer” and “don’t wear loose and baggy clothing if you’re short”, but now we’re going to look into this a bit further and learn from 2 of the most stylish guys we know – and yep you’ve guessed it, one is taller and one is shorter than the average man.

 La Touché at LCM

Taller than the average 

My name is La Touché, I'm tall and I LOVE hats! By day I teach Environmental Health and by night I grow closer and closer to my passion which is to become a brand consultant. 

My fellow friends Martell Campbell and Nigel Ruwende attracted me to menswear with their impeccable individual style. I've always been inspired by individuality and confident dressers. 

I'm always Always wearing a hat (you'll never catch me without a hat) mood changing and weather dependent. I tend to dress depending on how I feel and on how good or bad the weather is. 

I like to think that my style is experimental, I like to take risks and try and switch up my style a bit, experiment as much as possible. I feel I can take more risk due to my height. 

Tips and advice for guys with a similar body shape 

If you have trousers that no longer fit you BUT you love them, wear them a little higher and show LOADS OF SOCK! If you have a small waist wear braces. Invest in a good pair of black shoes and find a good long sleeve shirt that sits well on the arms (same rule for blazers and jackets). Experiment when layering - being slim allows a lot more flexibility. Build up a good relationship with your tailor (don't just see him for your formal outfits).

 Nigel at LCM (image credits: Zane Colquhoun for MWS)   

Shorter than the average 

My name is Nigel Ruwende, I'm a stylist and Deputy Editor ofindividualism.co.uk, from a young age I was amerced by popular art, style, and fashion by my older sisters. As I grew older, my love and comprehension of menswear evolved. 

I would say my personal style matures with me. If I could wear a suiteveryday I would, but you can't rush these things. I have elements of tailored street wear in my day to day wardrobe, but I'm gradually building up a stronger smart wardrobe as my sartorial knowledge grows. 

Tips and advice for guys with a similar body shape 

In terms of suiting I'd say if you have a similar body shape to me, don't go ultra fitted. I'm quite slight so I've learnt that if I have things too fitted I just look ill! 

Follow the shape of your silhouette, but leave it little room. It makes the overall fit look effortless, and when you're comfortable you're confident.

DRESSING YOUR AGE - 30S

I turned 30 last year and felt weird, for lack of a better word. There was this feeling of sadness that I would perhaps lose my game the minute a 20 something woman asked for my age at the bar, like that ever happens!!! But at the same time, there was an overwhelming sense of accomplishment when I realized that I was better turned out at 30 than I have ever been. 

Dressing your age in your 30s can be tricky and also has a lot to do with dressing for your role at work. That has a lot to do with striking a balance between still looking young and trying desperately to hang on to your youth! 

In my 20s it was acceptable to wear basketball shoes, loose denims and tees because you were in college or getting into your first job. When I hit 30, it was critical I dressed neat and clean. I am now in middle management and interact regularly with clients, and meet them for a drink after work hours too. I have a team that reports in to me and I should ideally project what their role model would look like. 

Which is why, I always keep a blazer (pocket square in tow) and pair of shoes handy, in the backseat of my car. Also I tend to stick to a reversible belt (black/brown) for ease of flipping it over depending on the shoe colour. With formals, it’s usually a dress watch and cuff links for shirts to nail the look. The choice of shoes are brogues, oxfords and penny loafers. 

What about Friday nights and the weekend you say? When you are out grabbing a beer at the bar or dancing away at one of those drum n bass, dubstep gigs? None of those baggy, low hanging denims. It’s morePaul Smith jeans - straight or slightly tapered denims or chinos coupled with classic sneakers or loafers, shorts (no cargos please) with a basic v neck or broad round neck tee. Strictly no loud prints or worse still Ed Hardy t shirts that are oh so gawdy! 

And then there is your eye wear - keep it simple. No random designs or mercurial lenses. Remember, you are not a snowboarder or dirt biker, unless you are one of course. Go for the 3 classic looks that RayBan retails and at least one of them is made for your face. Those are the Aviators, Wayfarers or Club Masters. All 3 different and unique designs. All 3 very classy and mature. 

Then there are the dress down days. No sir, Hawaii shirts do not qualify. Keep it classy with polo tees, chinos, dark straight cut denims and loafers/brogues. Perhaps a minimal Chronograph for a watch and if wearing sneakers, a G Shock will match better. If you feel the need to wear sneakers, stick to brands such as Nike, Converse, New Balance or Onitsuka Tigers. You cannot go wrong with vintage designs! 

A critical thing is to focus on being stylish, rather than trendy. Work on your personal style and make that your trademark look. It could be the slightest detail, like for me it is wearing my watch on the right hand and a statement ring on the middle finger of my left. And break out those running shoes. Remember it is critical to stay fit for you to look good at any age, more so when you hit your 30s and progress from there. Invest in a good pair of training shoes and clothes. Stay fit and look better than you ever did as you get older!

How to Build a Classic Women's Wardrobe

.The trick to assembling a classic wardrobe is to gather a mix-and-match collection of timeless clothing pieces and accessories that work double, triple or even quadruple duty. By building a chic wardrobe of 20 to 25 tailored, versatile pieces, you will have an outfit ready and waiting at your fingertips that can take you from the desk to dinner. Be prepared to spend some time and a few dollars to find age-defying tops, skirts, pants, dresses, jackets, footwear and accessories that fit and complement your body type

     1 Try on form-fitting tops that flatter you. The narrowest part of a curvier figure might be right under the bust; choose blouses and sweaters with a high-set empire waistband or well-structured seams allowing the rest of the top to float gracefully away, making your legs look like they go on for days. A slender person can wear more fitted clothing; added ruffles across the chest and a peplum waist bestow a shapelier form.

2

Shop for quality pants, jeans and skirts without pleats that add unnecessary bulk. A smoothly fitted pant should flow naturally down the leg line from the widest part of your hip. A tall, slim frame suits skinny jeans, pencil skirts and Capri pants, while an hourglass shape rocks straight-leg pants, trouser jeans and A-line skirts. Almost everybody can wear the right walking short, with a hem just above the knee.

3

Toss the classic jean jacket over a dress for that laid-back, ready-to-picnic style.

Find knee-length classic dresses that speak to who you are. Prints add interest and give you the chance to express your wild side. Every woman needs a little black dress to romance a date or head out on the town. Wrap-style dresses, shirtdresses and classy formal dresses have a certain "je ne sais quoi" that never go out of style.

4

The jacket is the "completer" piece for every classic wardrobe.

Show off or create a shapely upper half by adding a couple of must-have jackets to your wardrobe. For a streamline fit, pick well-seamed coats with texture, such as tweed, that button comfortably below the bust and don't sit above the widest part of your hip. A basic well-made cardigan substitutes for a jacket on a sultry summer evening.

5

Include a supply of timeless shoes, sandals, boots and purses in your classic collection.

Flaunt a pop of color. Buy neutral structured suits and sport them with red or green high-heel, pointy-toe pumps for work. For an edgy look, slip into a tall, slender boot and a wrap-style dress. Don walking shorts with a sweet kitten heal or rhinestone sandal for shopping or the PTA meeting. Add a couple of fashionable bags to your collection for variety, but never "match" your shoes to your purses; instead, think of them as "going well together."

6

Glamorize simply stated outfits with jewelry. A basic summer dress comes to life with a chunky bracelet. Statement-piece necklaces add a personal wow factor to a traditional suit dress. Fill in the space that a swooping neckline opens up with an attention-grabbing string of beads, but keep your neck free of gems when a top has built-in glitz.

7

Mix your classic pieces to make the most of your wardrobe. For example, break up a formal suit and sport the jacket with a tee, jeans and heels or wear the trousers with a casual coat, blouse and stilettos

how to create your own trend

Are you tired of just following the tide in fashion? Be a trendsetter! Becoming a trendsetter can mean many things, but it is often associated with establishing standards for fashion and beauty.create your own trend by following these steps:

1 Know the existing fashion trends. How can you set a trend if you are not familiar with the field you are trying to set a trend in? You need to first know what is there as status quo, what already exists. This is quite easy to find. Fashion authorities such as Vogue and other fashion magazines will ensure that you are educated on the current fashion trends that exist. This is your first requirement for setting a trend. You need to know what existing fashion needs to be challenged or broken. 

2 Think in advance. You ought to think of the seasons. If you are currently in spring, think of winter trends that you can come up with. The incubation time for your ideas will allow you to strengthen your resolve and let you market it effectively. In this case, you need to have a very wide imagination, so that it will all be real for you even way before it comes to pass.

3 Experiment on styles. Be very bold and make your own statements. This is really something that fashion gurus are known for. They only get the following from fashion enthusiasts later. But they have already embraced the styles they promote even before people approved of them.

4 Solidify your style. You can't set an unformed trend. Solidify your style and make it really concrete and livable. Make it also as flexible as possible so that many people can implement it for themselves. 

Dress Between Seasons

Seasons come. Seasons go. In between their coming and going, what do you wear?  The changing seasons can effectively make it difficult for you to find the right dress because the weather can become rather unpredictable. You could never predict whether the bright sunshine warming up your face right now will turn into a rather weepy, wet, and cloud-covered sky in a few minutes. Yet, despite the weather’s unpredictability during the changes in seasons, you can still remain stylish. In this article, you will learn some tips on how to dress between seasons.

Dress according to season. If you are at the tail end of one season and are about to enter into the next, make sure you are ready for the coming season. So, as winter begins packing up, you should do the same to your winter clothes. You will not need your dark-colored boots, hosiery, and thick turtlenecks for spring or summer. In their place, you can wear brown or tan boots together with dresses that are appropriate for the coming spring or summer. To keep the balance, wear a sweater or blazer on top of your new spring clothes.

Wear clothes in layers. Three layers should be enough. Wearing more than three might keep you too warm for comfort during spring or summer season. For the innermost layer, you can wear a tank top. On top of it as second layer, you can wear a sweater. As your outermost third layer, you can wear a jacket. Never wear three shirts in layers. It will be very warm and uncomfortable. Worse, it can make you look foolish. Make sure that you wear at least one layer that is structure (for example, a knee-length coat or a blazer). Stick to neutral colors, if you can. You can wear clothes with colors from the same family, but be very careful about going overboard. Contrast can create a really visually pleasing effect on your layers. You can also try mixing and matching fabrics. Silk or cotton, for example, looks perfect with cashmere.

Show your skin. Especially your legs. Save the stockings and socks for rainy days. Show how wonderful your bare legs look by wearing flats (e.g., ballet flats) that have true soles and heels. Avoid wearing flats that are sole-less or heel-less, as they actually look like slippers. Under inclement and rainy weather, you can wear rain boots, but do step into real shoes once you get out of the rain.

Thin your cover. Thick covers such as winter coats are ideal for winter. For spring and summer, go for the thinner covers. A safari-style jacket is as perfect a cover as a waist-cinched trench coat. If you want to look updated with your cover, you might want to try the sixties-style A-line coats that are becoming popular these days. Such coats look nice on top of trim pants and little dresses.

Prepare for rain. A richly colored umbrella hanging from your arm won’t do much damage to your look. In fact, it may just complement your fashion style while keeping you armed for unpredictable rain.

Seasons may come and seasons may go. Let them. Your fashion sense still remains, although with some minor adaptive adjustments.